Buying / Shipping

Q | Do you accept returns?

A |
I gladly accept returns and exchanges. Please contact me within 14 days of delivery if you want to return an item. Art must be shipped back within 30 days of delivery

Buyers are responsible for return shipping costs. If the item is not returned in its original condition, the buyer is responsible for any loss in value.

Q | How quickly do you ship?

A |
I typically ship in 3-5 days after payment is received. This might be delayed if I’m traveling. Regardless, I’ll contact you as soon as a purchase is made to give you an estimated ship date.

Q | What if my art is damaged during transportation?

A |
All art shipments carry insurance to cover potential damage. If you receive a damaged piece of art, please do the following: take pictures of the art to show where it was damaged AND take pictures of any damage to the shipping container. Please send those to me and I will initiate a full return and refund. Sometimes encaustic art can be repaired. If that’s a possibility, I’ll provide that option.

Q | What if I don’t absolutely love it when I get it home?

A |
I’ve tried very hard to describe and photograph my work honestly, and accurately. Still, sometimes people get art home and have a change of heart. If you don’t love it and want to return it, of course I’ll take it back. Please be aware you are responsible for return shipping and it must be returned in its original condition.

Q | Do you sell outside the country?

A |
I can, but shipping costs are more complicated. If you see something you’re interested in, contact me with your shipping address. I can pull the art from the site for up to 36 hours during which time I can get an estimated shipping cost and time. Because I mostly offer free shipping in the US, I’ll offer you the equivalent cost reduction for foreign shipping.

Q | How do you ship very large pieces of art?

A |

Shipping costs today are very expensive. And, especially with larger pieces of art, I worry about the potential for damage. So for art that’s up to 48 inches in either linear direction, I do one of two things:

  1. I add a shipping and insurance surcharge to individual pieces.
  2. I will literally drive it your home. If you’re located with 500 miles of my home in mid- Michigan and order a large piece, there’s a strong possibility it would be safer and less expensive to simply drive it to you myself. We can discuss.

Q | Do you sell at art fairs?

A |

In the pre-covid world, I would show my work at up 12-15 community art fairs in the Midwest a season (generally Memorial Day through Labor Day). I did no art fairs in 2020 and expect to do only a limited number in 2021. For a full schedule of my appearances – and other news such as pieces I’m working on – sign up for my occasional newsletter.

Encaustic Art

Q | What is encaustic?

A |

Encaustic is an ancient painting technique that originated with the Greeks. They initially used beeswax to make ships waterproof. They later added pigments to the wax for additional decoration. The process evolved into painting. Some of the earliest examples of encaustic paintings are funeral portraits in Fayum, Egypt, that date to the 1st-3rd centuries.

Today’s encaustic artists work in much the same way as their predecessors, mixing beeswax with damar resin to create their medium. The word encaustic originates from the Greek word ‘enkaustikos’ which means to ‘burn in’ and reflects a necessary part of encaustic painting, the fusing of each layer with heat before a new layer is added. Damar resin (which comes from a tree found in the East Indies) is typically added to the beeswax in various ratios to add durability, increase the beeswax’s melting point, and provide varying degrees of luster.

Many artists today create layer upon layer of encaustic – often manipulating it once it has cooled – to create works of indelible depth and texture. Other artists add elements such as photos, collage material, stencils and even sand to their medium..

Q | How do I care for my encaustic painting?

A |

Encaustic is archival – it will never yellow or fade – and very durable. As with any piece of art, however, there are certain precautions you should take to guard against damage.

  1. Provide a Consistent Temperature – Hang and store at normal room temperatures. Avoid freezing and extremely hot temperatures; encaustic will soften at around 120°F and melt at 150°F.
  2. Avoid Direct Sunlight – Keep all artwork out of direct sunlight because of potential heat damage.
  3. Transporting – When packing encaustic art for transportation, cover the face of the painting with wax paper. If the painting is unframed, wrap the entire piece with wax paper before surrounding with bubble wrap or foam. Do not use bubble wrap directly on the front of the painting as it may leave an imprint on the surface.
  4. Framing – Encaustic does not need to be protected by glass. A floater frame or simple wooden frame are often attractive options that help protect the edges of the painting from scratches, dents, and chips.
  5. Curing – Encaustic paintings may continue to ‘cure’ for a full year after they’re created. This can produce a naturally occurring white haze on the surface called blooming. The haze can be removed by buffing the surface with a lint-free (and seam-free) cloth or pantyhose. NOTE: Not all encaustic paintings should be polished. All of my artwork is delivered with specific instructions.
  6. Cleaning – To remove any dust, simply use something like a Swiffer lightly across the surface.

Q | How do I hang or display my encaustic?

A |

Individual pieces of encaustic can often be heavier than more familiar oil or acrylic paintings. This is mostly because there are often many layers of encaustic medium (beeswax mixed with damar resin). Therefore, you should hang these with care.

  • Much of my heavier work already comes with French cleat hangers. These are durable hangers that come in two pieces – one installed on the artwork itself and the other ready for you to attach to your wall. These should be attached to wall studs, if possible, or with something like drywall anchors.
  • Smaller pieces can be either placed on a wall, mantle, or easel, depending on its thickness. Be aware that even small pieces can be top- or bottom-heavy depending on how the encaustic is applied.

Q | Are your encaustic paintings one-of-a-kind?

A |

Yes. Each piece is a unique and authentic creation.

Q | How do I know whether your art will fit my space?

A |
Each of my listings on Etsy come with precise measurements – height, length and depth. In addition, each listing typically shows the piece in a home setting so you can see for yourself how it might look on the wall. For added comfort, feel free to send me a well-lit digital photo of the space you’re considering. The photo should include some type of size reference (such as a ruler or tape measure). I can insert the art work – at scale – and that should provide a good representation of how it might look in place.

Q | What is your encaustic art made of?

A |
A more difficult question than you might think! The vast majority of my encaustic is painted onto birch panels. Sometimes these are store-bought; sometimes I make them myself. Onto these panels I sometimes put down an initial layer of encaustic gesso or plaster. Then comes the wax – usually several layers. Into this I’ll add a variety of paints and pigments. And then usually more wax! On occasion, I’ll embed wires, shells, photographs or even glass.


Q | Is all of your photography authentic?

A |
Everything you see on my site is from one of my own cameras.

Q | What is a metal print?

A |
Some of my images for sale are printed on metal, specifically aluminum. These are done by special labs – the one I use for its quality and consistency is in California – that excel in this process. Metal prints do not have glass in front of them and most are sold without frames (though you can add a frame if desired). Metal prints are surprisingly light, even the largest weighing only a few pounds.

Q | How do I care for a metal print?

A |
Metal prints are extremely durable with ultra-hard, scratch-resistant, water-proof surfaces. They are uniquely easy to care for. Most of the time you can simply use a feather-type duster to knock the dust off. If necessary, you can do a more robust cleaning. The lab I use provides the following advice: “Non-ammonia glass cleaner, water, or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol can be used without harming the print surface. We recommend using a clean, lint-free cloth to wipe off the print. No cleaners containing ammonia, abrasives, or corrosive chemicals should be used.”

Q | Will a metal print fade?

A |
Eventually … but probably not in your lifetime if you keep it out of direct sunlight. I frequently sell metal prints at art fairs and display them in full sunlight for up to 12 hours a day. They are extremely durable and color-fast! In durability tests, they typically last 2-4 times as long as photos printed on paper (and a good photo print with UV coating can last 100 years.)

Q | What is a canvas print?

A |
Many of my photographs for sale are printed onto canvas. This is high-quality photographic canvas I buy directly from the producer (usually Epson) and print myself in my home studio (on a high-end Epson printer). That way I control the print, the inks (also Epson) and the mounting/framing process. All of my canvas prints are mounted onto a durable, non-warping substrate called Gator Board. This provides a print that – unlike canvas prints that are wrapped around bars (so-called canvas wraps) – will never sag. It lays flat.

Q | How do I care for my canvas print?

A |
These are easy to care for. My advice is to simply use a feather-type duster to knock the dust off on occasion. And be sure to hang out of direct sunlight. The surface is, however, still paper and will scratch. Don’t use water or any liquid cleaners on the surface.

Q | Will canvas prints fade?

A |
The canvas prints I produce are printed with archival ink and the paper is coated to protect from UV damage. According to Epson, if you keep these out of direct sunlight, they should remain colorfast for over 100 years.

Q | Do you offer custom photography orders and sizes?

A |
Absolutely. The photos I have for sell on Etsy are finished and ready to ship in the sizes listed. But I will happily discuss printing in a different size or on a different medium. Most of my photos look equally nice on canvas or metal, the choice is usually up to the buyers. As for size, most of my work will easily hold up to six feet in any direction. So if you want a custom size, paper, metal print or different frame, just ask. Custom orders take longer to produce, of course, and do require a 30-percent non-refundable deposit.

Q | Do you drop ship?

A |
Drop shipping is when a lab prints a photograph and ships it directly to the customer. This is especially advantageous to buyers who can typically receive the artwork faster. In addition, total shipping costs are reduced and the entire process is more environmentally friendly. (Yea for the planet!)

While I typically print all of my own canvas photos, if you want a custom size or finish I can’t produce in my studio, it’s easy to have my external lab print and ship directly to you. I only use one external lab and am comfortable creating color-calibrated files for their process.

The most common item that’s drop shipped are metal prints. Since the lab does these anyway, it’s less expensive and more environmentally sound to have the lab ship directly to the buyer.


Q | Are you really a speechwriter?

A |

Yes! I’ve been a professional executive speechwriter for more than 30 years. I’m a founding member of the Professional Speechwriters Association, a judge for the acclaimed Cicero Awards (annually recognizing the world’s best speechwriting) and director of The Speechwriting School.

In addition, my book “10 Steps to Writing a Vital Speech” is one of the industry standards on speechwriting. I specialize in topical speeches on large social issues such as sustainability, diversity, leadership, and economic and manufacturing policies and trends.

You can see my LinkedIn profile here.

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